The Wonders of the Land of the Ice Bears

Part II

Hopefully, you saw my previous past about my adventures in northern Manitoba, Canada photographing the polar bears and other wildlife. If not, go back and check that one out first.

Last time I talked about how the trip came about, with a bit of history of the Churchill area and a little about the polar bears. Today, I want to share more about the feelings from the trip, the experiences, more photos of bears and other animals and more photos of the area.

Getting a look from a bear on the ice near Hudson Bay.

The more time I spend around our animal friends the more I realize how similar we really are. One thing that was evident right away was the absolute love the mother bears have for their cubs. The love was visible in so many different ways. Not only do the mothers protect and care for their cubs, but they also spend a lot of time teaching the little ones. They teach how to hunt, how to seek shelter, how to find bits of nutrition, how to climb the rocks and negotiate the pack ice. They teach their cubs how to pick up the scent of other bears, possible predators, and possible prey.

Momma giving some milk to her cub.

I was surprised at how much time the mothers spend just enjoying their children and playing with them. And just like human children, the cubs’ curiosity is nearly endless. They find wonder in everything! The little ones love to slide down a snowy hill; they seem to truly enjoy the wrestles with mom. And I could see the joy and wonder in their eyes as they take in everything in their world. Seeing that love between the mothers and cubs and the pure joy these bears have for their surroundings was incredibly moving.

Momma is just giving some loves to her cub.

The more time I spent around the polar bears the less I viewed them as dangers. Now, I don’t mean to say that I got less cautious; no, I mean that I quickly saw them as equals. They love their children as we do. They love to play; they love to exercise. They love life as much as you and I. And while that moved me with an inner peace, I also found myself feeling profoundly sad at times.

We think that junior must have bitten mom in a very sensitive spot.  She was not happy, but this was more show than real ferocity.  She was likely teaching junior to be more careful.

Early on in the trip I learned that these bears have been without their primary food source, seals, for over 140 days! While it was cold, the bay was not close to freezing over. Would these wonderful bears make it in time to find food and go on with their lives for another year? Only 50% of polar bear cubs survive to adulthood. How many of these dedicated mothers would see their child die?

The mothers are constantly on alert for male bears.  Here she is on watch, with her cub obviously learning to be watchful too.  Hopefully, mom’s diligent teaching will improve her cub’s odds of survival.

And we humans are solely responsible for worsening these magnificent bears plight. Global warming is not a hoax as our moronic president seems to claim. The carbon dioxide concentration in our atmosphere is easily measurable. And, by taking glacial ice core samples in the mountains, the arctic and the Antarctic, we can easily compare today’s carbon dioxide levels with those even hundreds or thousands of years ago. Our Canadian neighbors do not debate climate change as we do here in the US. No, they are trying to figure out how to mitigate the damage we have done to our world.

The little one is tussling with momma, developing her wrestling skills.

In addition to the bears, the Churchill area is home to lots of other artic wildlife.  One morning, Erik (our guide) took us back to Bird Cove to see if he could spot some artic hares as he said they like to take shelter in the rocky areas.

I was able to get this photo of this beautiful hare as he/she was resting on some rocks.  I think the little fellow was trying to figure out what I was doing.
These hares are really beautiful, and this one finally heard something and put up those wonderful ears.

These arctic hares are quite difficult to spot as they are perfectly camouflaged to blend into the snow and rocks.  Erik has an amazing ability to spot the wildlife – maybe it’s those young eyes with lots of experience.

As we were hanging around the Bird Cove area after the hare session, we came upon a group of ptarmigans.  These are the strangest little birds as their feet and lower legs are covered in very downy feathers.

These little birds seem perfectly adapted to the arctic type environment.
This little one has it’s feathers fluffed up, so it’s a bit easier to see the detail in the coat.
This photo really shows off those heavily feathered feet.
These little ptarmigans seemed to be fairly comfortable with us being so close photographing them. 
This is one of my favorite photos as this ptarmigan walked up on these rocks giving me a perfect shot to highlight it against the dark rocks and that cold, dark winter sky.

These polar bears are amazingly well adapted to not just their winter life out on the ice hunting seals, but also to their life on land navigating their summer/autumn environment. Their sight, smell and hearing are all incredibly sharp and sensitive. Those huge paws not only help them navigate the ice and snow, but they also provide great grip on the glacier smoothed rocks around Hudson Bay. And by the way, those giant feet also help the bears with their swimming – kind of like big flippers in the water.

Taking a look from the rocks.

The bears are very playful, but due to their long time away from their main food, they do tend to take rests and naps whenever possible.

Here is the same bear kicking back probably wondering why these humans are hanging around.

As I mentioned above, the bears are excellent climbers, and their cubs are pretty good as well. Here is a series of photos I took one afternoon of a mother and her cub climbing up some large rocks for a great view of the surrounding area.

Here is the mother negotiating the steep rock and snow as she heads up toward the top.
Momma and her cub looking back from the top of this big rocky hill. They are always alert.
Mom is spent. She’s ready to relax and keep a watch while baby is finding a comfortable spot on mom.

And yet these bears seem to know that they are the kings and queens of their land.

Mom is on alert smelling the air for information, but this is her land.

The bears were constantly on the move. Sometimes they were right on the coast walking along the shore or hanging out on top of some enormous ice blocks from some recent storms. They seemed to be either looking for food scraps, looking out for other bears or seeking shelter from the relentless winds.

One early morning in “bear alley” right on Hudson Bay, we found these two looking inland for other bears as they rested atop these huge ice blocks.
This is the bay side of those big ice blocks. The bear is well over 8 or 9 feet standing on her hind legs. Those long things sticking out of the ice are kelp fronds. The bears do munch on them for some nutrition.
The cub has found a new visitor, and mom doesn’t look overly concerned. It’s likely that the bear in the ice crack is either another female or possibly an older cub that is saying hello to it’s younger sibling.

At other times we would encounter the bears farther inland, sometimes several miles from the coast. They were just so incredibly active and mobile.

This big male was crossing a frozen pond, and that ice was super slippery. But as you can see, those big flat furry feet are really good for walking on sheer ice. It probably helps that the bears have built in crampons – those huge claws!
Once again, the mothers are constantly wary of any approaching males. Here, mom is letting another bear know that getting any closer would be very unwise.
You can see from the size of this bear why the mothers are so wary and work so hard to avoid conflicts. These are the largest predators on the North American continent.
Here is another close-up of one of the huge males. Here he looks quite friendly, giving a curious look at me. Yet, if I was alone, he would change that expression to one of aggression as yes, I would be food.

But remember, these bears are not evil killers; on the contrary, they are intelligent and caring creatures who are incredibly devoted to their offspring. But like all of us, when they are hungry (remember they haven’t had a significant meal in close to five months), they can become quite aggressive. I think of the Snickers commercial where the people get “hangry – you’re just not you”.

Yet, you have seen the peacefulness and the tenderness. These bears do not go around looking for trouble. They are just doing their best to survive in harsh environment, but they do find a lot of joy.

Here are momma and her cub checking out the area. Little bear looks quite interested in scaling that rocky hill.
The cub is getting some rest while mom, who is relaxed, keeps her eyes open for any potential danger.
Momma and little cub have made an acquaintance up on these rocks. Maybe this bear on the left is an older sibling to the little cub.
This mouthing, while it looks quite aggressive, seems to be a communication between the bears.

I wasn’t at all sure what to expect when I got to Churchill, Manitoba. I knew it was small, but the whole area wasn’t quite what I expected. This region is much wetter than I had anticipated; much of the land is just covered in marshes, ponds, and lakes. After being in the greater Churchill area for a week, I really began to appreciate the environment. It’s so entirely different than my home in Utah – no mountains, and the trees are so much smaller.

Late afternoon at Bird Cove south of Churchill. Notice the branches on the trees – mostly growing on one side.

The closer you get to the coast, the less trees you see. And the trees that do grow near the coast mostly only have branches on one side. Even in early November, the winds are fierce. As you may have read in Part I, the first full day I was in Churchill, the winds were gusting at over 70 miles per hour (113 kph)! From what the locals were saying by later December and into January and February, nighttime temperatures can be -35 Celsius with occasional lows to less than -40C.

I took this photo a bit south of Ithaca Beach as the afternoon light was highlighting the clouds after a clearing storm. The winds here have scoured off much of the snow.

Yes, this is a very harsh place, yet the beauty here is astounding. There is a very peaceful feeling when you’re out away from town. The region is also more rocky than I had expected. This entire portion of North America was once covered in massive glaciers. So, these rocks have been ground down and scraped smooth by thousands if years of glacial ice moving over them.

Late afternoon on the inland side of Bird Cove. You can see how these rocks have been almost polished by the glaciers over many years. And if you look at the right side of the photo, those are bear tracks from them climbing the rocks.

One thing that really hit me was how incredibly clear the air was up here. There was no pollution, and that made the skies so deep blue in the sun. And any bit of cloudiness produced so many colors in the clouds, even during the middle of the day.

One afternoon while waiting for some bears to move in for a closer view, I took this shot of the moon during broad daylight. The air was so clear that you can see the details and craters in the portion of the moon not obscured by the earth’s shadow. (I took this photo at f14 at 1/800 second at 1200mm.)
Rocky cliffs near Hudson Bay right before sunset.

However, those thousands of years of glaciers have made this portion of Hudson Bay quite shallow with rocky outcroppings extending far off shore. There is not much shipping in Churchill due to the shallow bay. The local news is that there may be more ships coming in if the port can be made safer.

This shallow shoreline has been quite hazardous to ships over the the years. In fact, there is a large wreck of an old iron ore ship that ran around in 1967 during a severe storm. That ship is called the Ithaca.

That ship in the distance is the Ithaca, still stuck on the rocky bay after nearly 60 years. Those ice chunks were pushed up on the shore after a high tide during a recent storm, probably on Saturday, November 8.
Here is a closer view of the Ithaca. If you look closely, or enlarge the photo, you can see how the steel hull has eroded away after all of these years.

So, this shallow area of the bay helps keep Churchill fairly isolated, and I’m sure that helps the polar bears to be more comfortable and at ease so close to a town.

This shot may give you an idea how large these bears really are.

Here are a few more photos of these magnificent bears.

Later afternoon photo of this big guy strolling toward me. Check out those claws!
Mom and her cub out near Hudson Bay trying to stay lower out of the wind.
This is exactly why we always stayed close to our guides. While photographing other bears, this one approached from over a small hill through the willow brush. This is not a place to become complacent.
This bear was looking quite curious in the late afternoon sun.
I took this shot on mom and her cub just about to cross a large frozen pond quite a way inland from the coast. Notice the larger trees in the background.
Yep, that’s me. Erik took this photo of me one morning while we were at Bird Cove on Hudson Bay.

This trip to the Churchill, Manitoba area was the most incredible thing I have ever done!  These bears, when you see them on the ground in their world, are absolutely magnificent.  The beauty of this area is astounding.  The air is so clean; the sky is always so colorful.  The rocky coast is such an amazing place.  The harshness of the Churchill area seems to make this place magical.

If you ever get a chance to visit this amazing land, do not hesitate.  Just do it! 

This has been wonderful to be able to share these photographs with you.  And I have enjoyed sharing my thoughts and feelings with you.  I really hope you have enjoyed this post as much as I did making it. 

Thank you so much for visiting my page.  And, whatever you celebrate, have the most wonderful Holidays!

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