Cape Disappointment

On the north side of the mouth of the Columbia River lies Cape Disappointment. The Cape takes its name from the English Captain, John Meares, who explored the area in 1788 but could not find the actual entrance to the Columbia River. He thought that he had just found a large bay, and called the north prominence Cape Disappointment. The area was first mapped by the Spanish explorer Bruno de Hezeta in 1775. It’s unclear if he knew that the bay was part of the Columbia River.

Cape Disappointment Lighthouse last October 2022.

However, it wasn’t until Lewis and Clark’s arrival in 1805 that the connection between the Columbia River mouth and the Cape and bay were put together by the expedition’s surveys and from the earlier maps of Captain Meares.

Cape Disappointment lies a few miles northwest of Astoria, Oregon and just a couple of miles southwest of the tiny town of Ilwaco, Washington. The Cape sees over 2552 hours of fog a year – that’s equal to 106 days! (from Wikipedia) It’s one of the foggiest places in the United States.

A closeup of Cape Disappointment Light. The tower definitely needs to be painted.

Last year when I was visiting the Washington coast I took a trip down to Cape Disappointment and photographed the Cape Disappointment Lighthouse. My goal this year was to explore the area and then photograph the lighthouse again, but at sunset. The lighthouse was first used in 1856, and is still in active use today.

Cape Disappointment is the only place on the United States west coast where there are two lighthouses within two miles of one another. The Cape Disappointment Lighthouse is not very visible to ships approaching from the north as there is another prominent head that blocks the view of the light. So, about two miles to the north is the North Head Lighthouse. This light was built completed in 1898 and stands 66 feet (20.1 meters) above the headlands. The light is still an active and very important navigation aid.

The cliffs around North Head from the North Head Lighthouse looking out northwest.

The Columbia River bar – the area where the river’s fresh water melds into the ocean salt water is one of the most treacherous and hazardous waterways in North America. In fact, the US Coast Guard trains its hazardous water rescue teams in the Cape Disappointment area, and the Astoria station as well. In an average year the Coast Guard performs over 300 rescues in the general Columbia River bar area.

My first view of North Head Light from the trail between the lighthouse and the keeper’s quarters. Notice the perfect sky and calm, blue seas.

Well, Mother Nature was in fine form that Saturday in early October when I was there. The weather was absolutely stunning in the morning as I left Astoria, and was perfect all afternoon until about 2:30 pm. After photographing the North Head Light and the surrounding area, I drove about 2 miles up the the Lewis and Clark Museum near the Cape Disappointment Lighthouse. I figured I would explore the museum for an hour or so and then head back to the cape to get set-up for the sunset photos.

The North Head Lighthouse which is open for visitors each year from May 1 through September 5.
This is the keepers quarters which can now be reserved as a hotel. The lighthouse is about a quarter mile to the northwest behind the house.

There was no parking at the museum – nope, none, zero – nada. So, I started back down the hill, and boom – hit a big wall of fog! In less that 15 minutes everything changed – bright sunshine to thick fog! I went to the beach area and the breakwater, hoping the fog would lift soon. Nope! But I did find some really nice photo opportunities in the area.

The grass and dunes of Cape Disappointment. This is looking easterly toward the headlands.

After the photo session, I drive back up to the museum, and found parking. I went through the museum – well worth the time if you are in the area, and the fog was even worse. You couldn’t even the lighthouse a few hundred feet way.

In a way I was glad that the fog rolled in, otherwise I never would have seen this beautiful cape with the windblown trees. This view was magical with the fog in the background. The lighting was just incredible – soft, rich and vibrant.
This pelican swooped by not far above me as I was watching for the fog to clear for a view of Cape Disappointment Light.
You can see from the way this tree has grown how harsh and windy the Cape Disappointment area gets.

So, I drove back to Astoria through the thick fog, crossed that 3 plus mile (about 5.6 kilometers) bridge over the Columbia River, and had a nice salmon dinner at Mo’s right on the water.

I really hope that even though I don’t have my “perfect light” photo of Cape Disappointment Light, that you have enjoyed the virtual tour and my narration.

Watch for more from my trip to the Portland area and Astoria, and thanks so much for taking time to visit my blog. Have fun out there!

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